My hips feel like tin on wood as I get out of the taxi. The kids, who sat three across in the back, are out in the parking lot well before me. The 25 mile ride cost us, me, 180RMB. The taxi driver lingers as we make our way up to the booth. He seemed nice enough and I am suspicious of nice people. There were two lines to get tickets and Aidan told me one was for folks buying tickets online and the other for us. I stood in front of the window and the cashier did not look up. That is not unusual. Maybe wise. I said “ni hao” and I asked Aidan to ask what the ticket options were. The cashier as passive but then eventually friendly when the kids spoke Chinese. 393 RMB later we had three tickets. Two full fare tickets for me and Lydia since we are taller than 1.4 meter, a discount ticket for Aidan since he is less than 1.4 meters (still), and no ticket needed for Elisa since she is just under 1.2 meter (because I had her stand short).

Into the carriage and we are on the longest cable ride in China. The kids are excited as we climb. Before we get too high we hear trees rattling. Lydia sees them first. Monkeys. And then we are all excited. I am feeling good, my first vacation alone with the kids.

We get to the island, which I read and is evident from the cable ride is actually a peninsula, and we immediately see monkeys. They are all over. From babies to adults the size of a medium sized dog. The move in twos of mother and child, young monkey and young monkey. And then the older males move by themselves seeming to brood.

The island is hot and humid the kids want water which I fetch out of my bag. We make our way deeper in the island looking for different exhibits. The paved road gets a lot smaller. There are plenty of people around and monkeys are walking about. A couple walk up to us, unafraid, and walk past. This makes the kids nervous. The largest monkey in the area, who Aidan would later find out is called “the king” saunters up to me and then jumps for my bag. I move it. He jumps again and grabs it. I let go of the bag, not really wanting to fight with a monkey. Not really wanting to fight with anyone. The monkey pulls my bag on the ground in front him him -- the bag is a cheap and simple but somewhat sturdy nylon pull. Right in front of me the monkey starts to chew and claw the material to try to get what he thinks is food inside. There is actually no food inside. Another tourist tells me just wait, as if she is some kind of monkey expert. After maybe 30 seconds or a minute another tourist calls a park attendant who yells at the monkey and it gives up my bag, probably feeling sorry for me that there was no food inside for the monkey can always rampage other bags.

We start walking away and the kids are a bit scared. They ask to go home. I take Elisa by the hand and say it is no big deal and we keep walking and I now place my bag facing my chest like a new father his baby.

There are some shows on the island and we come across the monkey acrobat show. Monkeys come out and do some tricks. Kids are laughing, smiling, as a monkey somersaults. One monkey would not do the stunt the trainer hits him with a stick. A few times, at the back of the stage. Aidan notices and doesn’t like it. Elisa is still mostly just into the show. The misbehaving monkey is no longer on the stage and more monkey acrobats occurs sometimes with other animals, specifically a small bear and a goat. When the goat is made to walk a tightrope with a monkey on it’s back, Lydia asks to leave. I say stay a bit longer and the show ends maybe 10 minutes later. Lydia is really upset with how the monkeys are treated and doesn’t want to spend anymore time on the island. So we get back in line and take the cable ride back to town. The kids relax again with the refreshing air and the really excellent views.

When we exit, I am expecting hawkers of all types but all I find are old ladies trying to get us to by mangos and failing that, watermelons. I need a taxi. A ride back to the hotel. No taxis. Zero. Uber? Blank screen. We walk around the parking lot and find two taxi drivers sitting in their cars. They won’t take us, our hotel is too far. 20 minutes later one of these drivers refers another and he asks for double fare back to hotel. I say no, too much. 20 minutes a couple failed calls for help later, we are paying double fare.

Elisa falls asleep on across Aidan’s lap on the way home. I’m in the front seat checking on the Giants score and the latest developments in Beijing.

Monkey Island