Lydia told us she did not want to go to Harbin after it was announced Aidan was going with me. For a few days before the trip she was more fussy than her normal fussy four year old self. At times she was simply a terror, screaming and inconsolable for large chunks of time. I think Yang even gave her a good smack on the butt once. When Yang booked our family Chinese New Year trip to Malaysia Lydia steadfastly said she did not want to go. She wasn’t giving an inch. When Aidan and I arrived at our hotel in Harbin I walked to the registration desk and stood at the counter. There were two young woman behind the counter looking busy shuffling and counting receipts. I waited for one of them to look up. And waited. Zero eye contact. Other guests walked up right beside me, said in Chinese to one of the women, and checked out. Someone did the same thing over my left shoulder. Eventually, I spoke up and we got our room. They same exact thing happened on checkout. I stood right on top of the front desk, didn’t say anything, and didn’t get any attention. When I got home I talked to Yang about it describing it as “very china”. She explained that unless you say you need something there is no expectation that you do. At that point it kind of clicked in my head about why lines are so problematic here. Why people just walk up to the front of a line and ask for what they want. Another case is driving and interaction with pedestrians and bikers. Often it seems pedestrians have either a death wish or have just been startled awake from sleep walking. One case recently, I was driving about 40mph and a middle age man turned his bike directly in front of me and attempted to cross three lanes of traffic.  He survived. In another case two days ago, I was going through an intersection when a young woman jolted herself to a walking stop. It was as if she had no concept a car might be coming. This pedestrian/car interaction is the subject of much Chinese/foreigner discussions in China. I’ve heard many theories on why it is so different here than in the states or anywhere else with indoor plumbing. The theory which is sticking with me is this. In China, people driving are expected to be looking out for those with lesser transportation capabilities (bike, feet, cart) and not hit them. To, in fact, take care of them. So its not like they are being rude when they walk in front of the car just as the light turns green – just the opposite – they are trusting you. A few weeks back…mid December I guess…Lydia decided to spend the night with Cui Ayi. Cui Ayi has been our Ayi since we moved to Beijing and is quite close to Lydia. Lydia packed her little backpack and off she went. Aidan was crushed. As Lydia left, he came out of their bedroom with a couple Lydia’s toys, holding back tears, asking what toy Lydia would have to play with. Lydia’s mood has turned for the better. Just yesterday she said to me, “Baba, I’m going to Harbin” and she grabbed her little backpack. I asked her to wait. She said she was going. She walked to our front door, opened it, stepped outside, stepped back inside, and said “I’m back from Harbin”.

Unmet expectations